Vaquera at 10: Growing Up Without Selling Out

When Vaquera first burst onto the fashion scene in 2013, it wasn’t with polished presentations or luxury-ready silhouettes. It was with Amazon-bought sewing machines, self-taught tailoring, and guerrilla runway shows held in New York subway stations. The label—founded by Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee—quickly became a cult favorite for its DIY sensibility, chaotic styling, and unapologetically theatrical take on American iconography. But in 2025, the brand faces a new challenge: growing up without losing its edge.

From Subversive to Sophisticated (Sort Of)

This year marks a significant turning point for Vaquera. Not only did the label celebrate its 10th anniversary, but it also made a bold move—literally—relocating from New York to Paris. The decision wasn’t just symbolic; it reflected a larger evolution in the brand’s vision.

Their Fall/Winter 2025 collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week, was a dramatic fusion of the old and the new. Critics described it as “couture for deviants,” where satin bras became shoulder sculptures, leather trench coats shimmered with cyberpunk gloss, and oversized corsages nodded to vintage Americana. Metallic finishes, leopard faux fur, pearl-chain armor—every look was rebellious, but carefully considered. This wasn’t chaotic irony anymore; it was organized anarchy.

A Softer Rebellion: The Spring 2025 “New Basics”

Earlier in the year, Vaquera presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Dover Street Market Paris—a strategic move both in geography and aesthetics. This collection, dubbed “New Basics,” represented perhaps the clearest signal yet of the brand’s maturation.

There were still flourishes of punk—leather cargo pants, faux-fur capes, slogans like “LOVE” and “RAGE” emblazoned on sneakers—but also genuine wearability: crisp striped button-downs, minimalist crop bombers, slip skirts. Most notably, Vaquera introduced its first line of accessories: cowboy boots, sharp pumps, sunglasses, and V-monogram handbags. A far cry from their Tiffany gift-box dress of 2017, but no less daring.

Growing Up ≠ Selling Out

What makes Vaquera’s transformation so compelling is that it doesn’t feel like a betrayal of their roots. Instead, it feels like a strategic expansion. They’re not abandoning their “fashion fan fiction” ethos—rather, they’re refining it. There’s now a sense of intent behind the irony, a commitment to craft behind the chaos.

In an interview with Vogue Business, DiCaprio noted that the brand’s maturity isn’t about conformity—it’s about sustainability, both artistic and financial. “We’re still subversive,” he said, “just a little more polished about it.”

The Vaquera Legacy: Punk Is a Process

Looking at both SS25 and FW25, it’s clear that Vaquera hasn’t lost its soul. It has simply found a way to channel its energy in new, more focused directions. The decade-long evolution—from Tumblr-fueled DIY couture to Parisian subversion—isn’t a dilution, but a distillation.

In 2025, Vaquera is no longer just a fashion brand. It’s a case study in how to grow up without giving in, a lesson in holding on to what makes you strange and singular—even when the world finally starts paying attention.